Who Really Needs a Scalp ‘Detox’?

There are clarifying shampoos, purifying scrubs, even specialized conditioners—here’s how much of it is actually necessary.

By Jenna Ryu

March 25, 2025

The new skin care? Scalp care—or more specifically, a scalp “detox”…which, funnily enough, involves using more products, not less.

For some of us, hair routines are as straightforward as shampooing to clean, conditioning to soften, and adding an oil or cream for extra oomph. But now, glossy ends aren’t enough, apparently—according to the beauty gurus on social media, the top of our heads demand TLC too. Enter exfoliating salt scrubs, special “clarifying” and “purifying” shampoos, and overnight serums promising to tackle concerns ranging from greasiness and inflammation to dandruff and hair loss.

The recent scalp hype resurgence isn’t total nonsense. In fact, it’s something dermatologists are kind of on board with, since a healthy scalp is the foundation for healthy hair. “We wash and moisturize the skin on our face, neck, and body every day,” Jeannette Graf, MD, a New York City–based dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine, tells SELF. “But we’ve kind of neglected the scalp, if you think about it.”

A lot of common hair issues, like excessive thinning, flaking, and oiliness, can be traced back to an unbalanced scalp that’s either too greasy or too dry, Dr. Graf says, which is why paying attention to the roots isn’t such a bad thing. But given the wellness industry’s track record of turning niche concerns into marketing gold, it’s also hard not to wonder: How much of this is really necessary? We asked dermatologists for their honest thoughts on the booming scalp detox trend—including what’s actually worth adding to your shower arsenal.

Meet the experts

Jeannette Graf, MD, New York City–based dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine
Amy Spizuoco, MD, board-certified dermatologist at True Dermatology in New York City
Michael Cameron, MD, founder of Cameron Dermatology in New York City
Janiene Luke, MD, board-certified dermatologist and Residency Program Director at Loma Linda University Medical Center in California

What is a scalp detox, exactly?

“Detox” is a controversial buzzword in the wellness industry. But in hair care, the experts we spoke with agree that a scalp detox is essentially about deep cleansing. More specifically, “it refers to removing buildup from products, oils, sweat, and dead skin cells to promote a cleaner, balanced scalp,” board-certified dermatologist Amy Spizuoco, MD, tells SELF.

Beyond just feeling kind of gross, accumulated residue can contribute to a host of different issues, like scalp acne and greasiness. More notably, though, board-certified dermatologist Michael Cameron, MD, tells SELF that a lot of the “scalp care” fanfare may come from its potential to treat dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis—an inflammatory skin disorder that causes scaly, itchy patches. (Essentially, a dirty scalp can provide the perfect breeding ground for Malassezia yeast that, in excess, can trigger inflammation and flaking.)

So, that’s where the rising popularity of scalp detoxing comes into play. Beyond professional spa treatments, there’s a market for physical scrubs and chemical exfoliants, formulated to buff away sebum and flakes. There are also clarifying shampoos to deep-clean your scalp more effectively than your everyday formula. Some companies have even broadened the term “detox” to include serums and conditioners that help “balance” dry, irritated, or flaky scalps with lightweight hydration.

Do scalp detox products actually deliver?

The general idea is that detoxing (or thoroughly cleaning) your scalp can create a healthier environment for your hair follicles, which should in theory alleviate inflammation, itchiness, and thinning. As SELF previously reported, buildup and inflammation around the follicles can potentially disrupt their normal growth cycle. But whether these trendy treatments can actually deliver on their many claims is a more complicated question, dermatologists say.

Let’s start with what sets them apart from traditional shampoos. Part of the appeal, per the experts, is that many scalp treatments are packed with actives that target specific concerns. For example, clarifying shampoos, scrubs, and cleansers often contain derm-approved exfoliators like salicylic acid and glycolic acid—great for breaking down crusty flakes, excess oil, product buildup, and dead skin cells that your usual shampoo may have missed. Some also feature absorbent ingredients like charcoal and clay, which dermatologists agree can effectively soak up excess oil and give roots a fresher feel.

That explains why “people who use dry shampoo may benefit from [a detox],” board-certified dermatologist Janiene Luke, MD tells SELF. The same goes for those who frequently layer styling products to maintain curly or textured hair—over time, all that buildup can cling onto the scalp, making a nice “refresh” all the more essential.

That said, certain detox items may be more gimmicky than others, Dr. Spizuoco and Dr. Cameron point out—namely, those promising to “thicken” your hair or “stimulate” growth. In theory, keeping hair follicles clear might promote a healthy growing environment, but there’s no solid science to prove this can actually treat hair loss, SELF previously reported. “[These topicals] also don’t override genetics, hormones, or medical conditions affecting hair loss,” Dr. Spizuoco adds.

Not to mention, “a lot of detox products overlap with regular shampoos, just repackaged differently,” she explains. Take a pre-wash oil containing argan oil or vitamin E, for instance. While it’s effective at gently nourishing sensitive roots, you don’t necessarily need a separate treatment if your shampoo already contains them. Similarly, a scalp-specific conditioner might sound like a luxurious fix for dryness, but as Dr. Spizuoco explains, “Many aren’t much different from lightweight leave-in treatments—a good standard conditioner can often do the same.”

And when it comes to dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis in particular, there are some important caveats (and expectations) to keep in mind. While certain antifungal ingredients found in detox shampoos can manage mild dandruff and flaking (mainly, ketoconazole, selenium sulfide, or pyrithione zinc), they may not be effective for intense itching, painful burning, excessive scaling—symptoms better addressed by a dermatologist. These pros can assess your condition, rule out other potential health issues, and prescribe a more personalized solution that addresses the root cause of your crusty bits.

Can a scalp detox be bad for you?

As exciting as it is that there are so many options for just about every hair concern, the derms we spoke with agree: If you don’t have any specific issues—excess oil, itchiness, buildup—you really don’t need a separate scalp regimen.

If anything, going overboard when you don’t need to can backfire. “Using harsh ingredients or abrasive tools can lead to excessive dryness of the scalp and cause underlying damage or more inflammation,” Dr. Luke explains—which is especially true with physical scrubs and chemical exfoliants that are typically meant for occasional use (like once a week or even once a month, depending on your hair type). Certain leave-in products might also be too strong and trigger contact dermatitis—an irritated, itchy reaction that Dr. Cameron says can happen when harsh actives (like salicylic acid and tea tree oil) sit on a sensitive scalp for too long.

For folks with already healthy, fresh-feeling roots, keeping things simple with a good shampoo and conditioner is often enough, experts agree. However, if you’re really after a deeper clean, Dr. Luke recommends massaging your shampoo into your head with a scalp brush—an effective and affordable way to loosen buildup. Or for anyone interested in tapping into the “scalp care” world, ease into it by introducing one item at a time, Dr. Cameron suggests, instead of overloading on multiple new options all at once. (That way, if you have a negative reaction, you’ll know what caused it.)

Basically, if your scalp isn’t giving you trouble, there’s no need to let TikTok convince you otherwise. But if you are struggling with issues like uncomfortable dandruff, prolonged tingling, or shedding? Rather than stocking your shower with every trending product, your best bet is to check in with a dermatologist to figure out what actually works. That way, you’re not falling for marketing gimmicks…or setting yourself up for disappointment.